Night Sailing—Twilight, Whales, and Northern Lights

I always get butterflies before setting sail

This was my third trip with SeilNorge, but my first time aboard Havblikk, a Bavaria 50. We met up at the dock in Tromsø and stuffed the boat with food, snacks, sleeping bags, and good vibes.

I always get butterflies before setting sail. Even though I’ve sailed quite a bit, no two trips are the same. You never know what to expect as Mother Nature controls the weather.

Still, it’s up to us to create the coziness, the good atmosphere, and that’s one of the things I love most about sailing. You meet a handful of people from all around the world—people you would never have encountered otherwise—and you get close quickly living in close quarters.

It’s all About the People

A guy I sailed with on my very first trip taught me something very simple, something that I had forgotten in the rush of my own life. He said: “Remember to ask people about themselves and their lives. If you don’t, you might miss out on fantastic stories and amazing people.” I’ve carried that with me ever since. Everyday life moves fast, and it can be hard to find time and space for a good conversation, which is such a shame. While sailing, we have so much time to talk and listen to stories from people’s lives around the world—and that’s one of my favorite parts of sailing with others. Just a little pocket philosophy from me.

At SeilNorge, sailing experience isn’t required. Everyone helps each other, and on all the trips I’ve been on, I’ve sailed with the most skilled, warm, funny, and intriguing skippers and co-skippers. I’ve learned so much!

This trip was no different. We had two people on board who had never sailed before but dreamed of seeing whales and the Northern Lights. We also had two others who raced sailboats in the Greek islands. Whether you’re experienced or not, we all help each other—we learn from each other, and from our captain.

Whales and a Week Full of Magic

Once aboard, we got an introduction to the boat and safety, and then each of us introduced ourselves. We unpacked, made watch schedules, planned meals, and looked at the route planned for the days to come. What did we dream of getting out of this experience? We all hoped to see whales in their purest, wildest form—completely free in the Norwegian Sea.

The first night, as we anchored in a beautiful fjord we were greeted by a sky full of dancing Northern Lights. The scene was set. Now the whales, please …

And whales we got—plenty of them. Three different species. For several days, we were surrounded by whales. One morning I sat on deck in the soft twilight and frost, drinking my coffee as these majestic creatures of the sea swam all around us. I took a deep breath, reminded myself of how wonderful and magical life is and how important it is to enjoy it—to live it.

Danish Breakfast

I volunteered to make breakfast for everyone each morning, since mornings are my favorite part of the day. Each day I made scrambled eggs or porridge with nuts, fruit compote and chocolate. And of course—fresh hot coffee. We’d chat about what the day might bring, review the weather forecast, and decide where to sail and anchor for the night.

Our captain knew the area well, and one morning we sailed to a small island near Skjervøy called Spildra, where we met some of the locals. Later that evening, we decided to take a dip in the sea and then warm up in their newly built sauna. It doesn’t get much better than that. I’ll be coming back here someday!

The next morning on Spildra was breathtaking. I got up, went for a walk, looked out at the sea and mountains, and drank my coffee on shore while the others were still sleeping. I remembered that we had decided to fish and would suggest this was the day and place for it.

We caught cod for our fish soup. We also caught a pollock, and our captain told us it had to be eaten the way he used to as a kid on fishing trips: right away. I cleaned it, cut it into big chunks, and boiled it for 15 minutes in seawater. We ate it on crispbread with a bit of salt. It was my favorite meal of the whole trip—so simple, so fresh. I shall never forget it.

Sailors’ Midnight

It always amazes me how early you can get tired when the sun never rises above the horizon. For a period, we were surrounded by a soft pink, orange, frosty blue sky in every direction, and suddenly it was dark again—and at 4 PM and we’d be prepping dinner. Honestly, I quite like the rhythm: some nights we said goodnight at 9 PM (sailors’ midnight). Other nights after a long sail we’d arrive in some port … sometime in the dark, cook dinner together, and chat for hours in the warm cabin while it snowed outside. For anyone who hasn’t yet fallen asleep in a gently rocking boat with snow tapping on the windows—you have never slept.

Racing for the Finish Line

In hindsight it can be hard to separate the days. Some days we spent all day on deck sailing, while others we sailed short distances to visit small local islands. But sail we did—in all kinds of weather, both by motor over calm, mirror-like water, and with wind in our sails through the fjords. We all wanted to really sail, to feel the wind take hold—and on our return to Tromsø after six days at sea, we adjusted our course so we could raise full sails and feel the power of 30 knots of wind carry us forward.

When we reached Tromsø after seven days, we worked as a team to execute the harbor maneuver—everyone knew exactly what to do. We wrapped up finishing our snacks, cleaning the boat, and getting her ready for the next crew.

The Lucky ones

It’s always bittersweet saying goodbye to new friends. I still talk to several people from previous trips. So, a journey like this ends not only with new memories but also with new friendships. It’s so much more than ‘just’ a sailing trip. Norway has some magic tricks up her sleeve.

After the trip, I headed back to Copenhagen and felt a little post-travel blues. I went through my photos and videos, and like now—while I write—I’m reminded how lucky we are to have our beautiful nature and beloved ocean.

We must protect it, sail it, pick up the plastic others drop in it, catch only the fish we can eat, and use our platforms and channels to spread this message.

That’s why I sail with SeilNorge,
Christie Pixie, Copenhagen.